Comment

Comment by Marian Bostwick on March 14, 2012 at 1:06pm

A question for Tree Huggers* I have an ornamental Pear that I planted as a seedling 12 years ago directly out my front door. Our property came with boulders (& what I called dirt, & what I still call weeds.)  5' in front of the now 30' X 20' beauty is a huge boulder with natural flat shelves that I have 2 birdbaths on. I rinse & fill at least once daily, usually many times. I was wondering if all of that water concentrated in the 5' area it lands could be a problem. I am planting more shade growers under it this year to make use of the water, but what signs do you think I should look for if it isn't healthy for my tree? I love my tree. It signifies the start of my love of everything gardening, it shades my front yard, birds aplenty sing to me from there, I maintain & prune & compost & study proper tree care. Those are the most used birdbaths in the whole yard & that is my most mature tree. Any suggestions? Thanks, Marian

Comment by Cathy Zaccardelli on December 30, 2011 at 5:35am

In Michigan, our ash trees got eaten up my the Emerald Ash Borer.  Only an injectection of imidacloprid saved them.  Those who chose not to inject, lost their trees.  Now, a new product out by Arborjet, called Triage gives protection up to almost three years versus the one year protection of imidacloprid.  Ash trees are beautiful, do what you can to save it.  What are the symptoms of your ash trees?

Comment by Deborah Hamel (Z9a-9b Arizona) on December 30, 2011 at 12:06am

Marian-We did the same thing, planted 50 trees before we understood the basics of tree planting and tree care, other than watering. They were $19 per tree, shammel ash on east and west property lines with Goldwater pines across the north and south property line boundaries. The children were 1 1/2 and 4 years old when we planted the trees as a family project, a huge family project.

Now, 17 years later, there are some issues with the ash trees. I called Kasey Billingsly, an arborist out to survey the situation. Exactly your comment Cathy, about girdling roots and soil height. My son does not have an air spade, so is on his hands and knees carefully uncovering the roots in question, removing them and creating a proper soil height zone around the tree trunks. What a job! Thank goodness he is a college student who will work for food, and a supportive son. Otherwise, this process is $100 per tree, a budget buster to say the least.

Comment by Marian Bostwick on December 29, 2011 at 12:20pm

I planted most of my trees before I really learned about why native soil and climate is so crucial to having trees that become mature and thrive. We have not had any measurable rainfall in 300 days. I am going to extraordinary lengths to ensure that my most important tree continues to be healthy. An ornamental Pear. From Arbor Day, 11 years ago. My garden is 12 years old. Built our home for retirement on 1/3 acre. Dirt, weeds and boulders. The boulders became my first landscape and every bed has one centrally located to it. My Serviceberry is in it's 3rd Winter. As is my "Washoe Pine" I studied before planting those 2, and my Chaste Tree. My Yellowood died the first season, to my despair, as I did a lot of research before planting. Of coarse the $ is returned, but as we all know, it is the sweat equity, and the hope of the shade, the flowers, the birds that will nest and play there that we lose when a tree dies. I am a dedicated "TREE HUGGER" The word "deforested" gives me chills.

Comment by Cathy Zaccardelli on August 23, 2011 at 5:35am

It not only helps to safely locate girdling roots and removes soil to find root flares.  By removing soil you can determine if the burlap and cage were left on.  If compaction is found to be an issue, you can break up the soil, aereate.  If soil is void, you can mix in nutrients with an air spade.  You can determine if there is some type of root rot.  In addition to diagnostics, you can trench the roots in order to relocate a tree; to create a passage way through root for putting piping through. 

Comment by Bob (Z9B Florida) on August 20, 2011 at 1:57pm

Cathy:  What kind of problems do you identify using an air spade other than locating encircling roots or removing soil from above the flare?

Comment by Cathy Zaccardelli on August 20, 2011 at 7:43am

Air Spaading is another tool to help in diagnose tree problems.  Many times its the soil and roots. This method does not damage roots.  My plant healthcare class had a chance to try it on campus.

 

Comment by Cathy Zaccardelli on April 17, 2011 at 10:16am

Can Anyone identify this tree?  Michigan, Zone 5 taken yesterday?

 

Comment by Richard Webb on March 4, 2011 at 9:50am

I am mostly working on Facebook now. I have created some Facebook community pages, as "Oaks of Eastern North America," I loaded "Birch Trees" with lots of birch photos," Pines of the eastern US," take a look and click "like".

Comment by Richard Webb on September 27, 2010 at 5:57pm

I just put the native tree species of Yellow Birch into the Native Plant Group.

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